Jean-Manuel Duvivier
PAIRING WINE with cheese is actually a little more complicated than it seems. One of the most common errors is to believe that all red wine naturally goes well with cheese. It may be one of gastronomy's oldest combinations, but all too often the strong flavor of the cheese kills the aromatics of the wine, accentuating the bitter flavor in the glass. Far better to opt for a white whose acidity and freshness draws out the creamy texture of the cheese.
One of my all-time favorite pairings is a chilled glass of Muscadet and a ripe slice of local goat cheese. This pairing never disappoints—at least for a light lunch or on a balmy summer's evening. But what about in the depths of winter, when you have enjoyed, for example, a first course of potted shrimps and white Burgundy, followed by beef and mature red Bordeaux?
As food and wine writer Giles MacDonogh points out, going back to white wine after red doesn't always complement the structure of the meal. So what to do?
Unless you're planning on serving tawny port, Madeira, sweet wine or something a little more esoteric such as a Vin Jaune, you are left with red wine.
When we think of cheese and wine matching, we naturally tend to gravitate toward France. Hard cheeses, such as Cheddar, Gruyère and Comté, can stand up to most red Bordeaux and wines from the southern Rhône. A soft cheese, like a Camembert, goes well with a young, lively, juicy Gamay. Yet, when it comes to red wine and cheese, its neighbor, Italy, can offer an equally interesting exploration.
My own exploration started a little closer to home, with a visit to Patricia Michelson, proprietor of London cheese shop La Fromagerie. Ms. Michelson, who has been combing Italy since the early 1990s for all sorts of unusual artisan cheese, says that a good rule of thumb when it comes to pairings is: When in doubt, think local.
“A good rule of thumb when it comes to pairings is: When in doubt, think local”
The best place to start is in the Alpine foothills of Piedmont, which is by far the most exciting wine region in Italy at the moment. Home to the fine wines of Barolo and Barbaresco as well as Barbera and Moscato, it also produces a rich, fruity and sappy Gorgonzola—which goes well with a glass of Barolo or Nebbiolo.
In Tuscany, one finds Pecorino Marzolino Rosso, a dense cheese with a crumbly texture and a slightly earthy, sweet taste. This pairs well with the soft flavor and predominantly cherry aroma of Chianti. And the smooth texture of Sottocenere al tartufo, made in northeast Italy, is complemented by the richness of the local red wine, made from the Lagrein grape variety. One of Italy's most unctuous cheeses is the creamy and seductive Taleggio from Lombardy. Its light, floral character goes well with the white wines of Gavi in nearby Piedmont, but one can also pair it with the tart, cherry flavor of Dolcetto.
Above all, when it comes to cheese and wine, experiment and bear in mind that rules are there to be broken!
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